Monday, August 23, 2010

TEXTILE EDUCATION "textileedu.blogspot" GANDHI GIFT TEXTILE DESIGN EDUCATION



GIFT: “ATOM SIZE GIFT”SINCE 1995.
GIFT ART, CRAFT AND HOBBY
SUMMER VACATION WORKSHOP:
World Design Education Bodies can deny the “GIFT: Gandhi Institute of Fashion and Textile” Diploma Certificate of Fashion/Apparel or Textile Design and its Associate Degree of 2 years, which carries highest skillful knowledge weight, since 1995.
“GOOD NEWS for GIFT FRESH STUDENTS”
SUMMER VACATION DETAIL DESIGN GIFT FOUNDATION COURSE WORKSHOP 2014:
Course detail is mention underneath for every one PERUSAL.
Summer workshop will Begin from 25th march 2014 onwards. For course details click this links www.foundationgift.blogspot.in and www.khaliddesign.blogspot.com for course detail text with work and working photos and Design Arts Picture plates and for updates click this link www.giftgandhinews.blogspot.in for understanding.
Only 20 students will be given admission due to individual teaching.
Course duration is almost two month means 40 days, 125 Hours.
Course fee is 50% less than actual in down payment, with all learning materials and folios as per gift policies, teaching methods  and mission, for FEE click this link www.giftfeestructure.blogspot.in  “This is only for summer course and this facility will get closed in last day in first week of April 2014 for initial batch” Best learner will get 25% teaching fee refunded by cheque as/Gift Educ.
For more details about Gift Design Education for Fresh Learners Perusal click these links: www.giftgandhi.blogspot.com for students art work shows and sales, www.giftfashion2011.blogspot.com for western garments, www.fashioninst.blogspot.com for fashion course and garments, www.embroiderydesigning.blogspot.com for textile embroidery for multi task, www.gandhishow.blogspot.com for designer sari, www.giftfashionillustration.blogspot.in for fashion conceptualization and illustration, www.textileinst.blogspot.com for textile, website: www.gift-india.com email: info@gift-india.com and giftinst@gmail.com Address: White Cross Building, 15 Patel Society, Near CII Building, Panchvati, Gulbaitekra Road, Ahmedabad 380006, GUJARAT INDIA, Phone: +91 079 26463702
Mobile: +91 09825698294
“JOIN GIFT AND LEARN BEST IN WORLD”
“This is FIRST TIME on Fresh Learners Demand Gift is conducting summer workshop”
SUMMER VACATION WORKSHOP OF GIFT FOUNDATION COURSE IN AHMEDABAD FEE: Rs.25000/- with learning materials and folios, means BURDENLESS learning. LINK:
“125 Hours in 35 to 40 days learning”
“Carry home after learning, learnt work of value design, worth above 1 Lac in folios and frames”
2014 Gift summer workshop in Ahmedabad
Summer workshop of design in Ahmedabad
Summer workshop of art and craft in Ahmedabad
Summer workshop of art in Ahmedabad
Summer workshop of craft in Ahmedabad
Summer workshop of design and art in Ahmedabad
Summer workshop of design and craft in Ahmedabad
Summer vacation workshop in Ahmedabad
Summer vacation workshop of design in Ahmedabad
Summer vacation workshop art in Ahmedabad
Summer vacation workshop craft in Ahmedabad
Summer vacation workshop design and art in Ahmedabad
Summer vacation workshop design and craft in Ahmedabad
Summer vacation workshop art and craft in Ahmedabad

Art and Craft Hobby Summer Vacation workshop, onward 25th of March every year in Gift, with learning materials and folios, means BURDENLESS learning. “Duration 125 Hours means 35 to 40 days learning in 2 months” “Carry home after learning, learnt work of value, worth above approximately 1 Lac in folios and frames” In workshop learn colour transparent character surface designing, water colour, ornamental design on paper and fabric, embossing surface and painting, stencil and air brush painting and pencil shading under craft and art hobby as Gift Foundation course. Gandhi Institute of Fashion and Textile Ahmedabad by Khalid













GIFT TEXTILE DESIGN EDUCATION PROGRAMME


Basic Knowledge for Specialization in Textile Print Design

Textile Design is not as simple as it seems. It is not an exercise where bits and pieces of designs can be collected and put together to make a single design, nor is it easy like the making of instant coffee, but is a very thoughtful process of creating a design where one needs a clear in depth understanding of conceptualization of basic forms e.g. the elements of nature. When work is copied, the subject loses its purity and genuineness and this replica does not survive too long in professional practice.
Gandhi GIFT NGO which is amazing in its own ways of teaching and ideologies of their subject has always had a mission for success having a definite noble philosophy behind it. This has always been in continuous practice to learn all minute details in depth such as, how to conceive ideas, its implementation in surface ornamentation style using technicalities such as colour separations, repeats, needed décor for its performance in the form of an end use like Garments, Home Textile and other purposes.
For a GIFT learner it is very simple to achieve the above mentioned during classroom learning of the Textile Course abstract, under the guidance of GIFT faculty. All contents are systematically from A to Z, synchronized in a stepwise manner without any hurdles to achieve the above mentioned. That is why GIFT is the first wonder of Design Education for its teaching of such lengthy Design Courses through part-time short term, without adding much burden to the learner’s shoulder. This means they can have different lives for their learning with a different education stream where mostly GIFT learners are school and college students as well as housewives.
When distinctly elaborated, one can say that GIFT Common Foundation Course is enough to practice Textile in the field of Print Designing. GIFT is certainly unique since it is at certain instances based on versatile moral stories like that of systematic learning like magnetizing Art through the Sorcerer’s splashing of wonderful thoughts, with meaningful abstract ideas of heart, like a clever crow’s mind sort, like a directional continuous tortoise walk, without a giving up attitude as a confused fox, that gives way to GIFT students.
The above moral codes and GIFT Textile course abstract constantly link to each other in a manner which gets revised during every other course ,in context of textile, and is at least repeated 25 times during the course of Textile Designing while the individual learner learns at GIFT NGO. This is taken care of with a constant watch on each learner’s progress, and that makes learning much easier
GIFT’s first exercise of Colour Transparency teaches learners to use soft tools by understanding its character in various ways while developing varying forms, without any hesitation or hindrance using ink colours to create overall surfaces from the earth’s paradise and natural, geometrical and insect formation giving a transparent character of colours.
This teaches the fresh learner in depth colour interaction along with composition of versatile Textile surfaces helping to understand color’s transparent effect, all taught in the Common Foundation Learning of GIFT Design Education. This is the first course of GIFT Foundation Programme, which makes it the first wonder of Gandhi GIFT NGO Education that helps build the confidence in each learner for further growth and learning. With the help of this the learners learn to make the earth’s paradise in its natural, geometrical and insect forms, etc converting them into Textile Prints and “bouties” of singular style and so on. All this can thus be further utilized as a single print, in a flat or embossed manner for decorating purposes and making the designs ready for printing and embroidery in just 30 hours of learning of any fresh learner at Gandhi GIFT NGO. (The total quantum of fresh learners created material, in A3 size cartridge paper includes 40 plates fresh as well as its empirical method style of learning) but these students can recover half of their fees just by selling their learnt material since it is presented in an appropriate way.
That is why GIFT is known globally but it is a surprise to the learner and their parents due to their speedy achievements.
The second exercise of the Common Foundation Course is the Ornamental Design where GIFT NGO teaches scribbling of pen in black and white style, where the faculty guides them to understand and convert it into definite meaningful minute elements of earth’s paradise and its forms of nature in a versatile super imposing style. The enlargement of this is in itself almost near to the development of Textile Surface concepts.
The above exercise is taught at GIFT keeping in mind Textile Design, Jewellery Design as well as Fine Arts for its multipurpose usage in any form of Home décor, which is quite useful for future professional practice.
Due to GIFT’s repetitive teaching methods of previous learning the students learn composition of ornamental nature and geometrical form in a similar manner to what they have learnt in colour transparency while making final art piece like fine art design.
The method of flat and fan brush painting taught at GIFT is as clear as black and white where the boldest to the minutest and the most intricate details, when composed by the learner turned into art pieces, can be sold anytime recovering at least quarter of the amount paid as fees at GIFT. The learners are certainly advised to keep photocopies of the originals that they sell for future reference.
Pencil Shading for Textile style surface
The Pencil Shading exercise of various forms of nature is taught with light falling on the object from different directions, forming shadows creating a volume effect in the composition making it look alive in nature, which teaches the GIFT learner to add more value to the subject. From the above learning the students can later utilize it for creating dimensions in Textile Prints, Fashion Illustrations and Jewellery concepts, because with this exercise GIFT NGO learners are able to see and practice 3D Designs in many ways in their future.
Embossing style of Textile Surface
Another exercise, embossing, is adding more dimension to the surface while coloring with air brush. At this juncture, a better understanding from above subjects and its implementation with minute detail, certainly boosts the morale of the GIFT learner and helps them proceed further for specialization of any of the two subjects, be it Fashion or Textile Designing at GIFT NGO.
The above learning of art creates many art pieces made during the common learning program taught at GIFT, and if the learner sells these pieces in the market they will recover most of the money paid during their learning. For this, GIFT NGO is unique and is known globally, and since then GIFT has been arranging professional art shows quite often, in favour of GIFT learners.
But the common learning program does not end here, which means that, more skills are needed to help fresh learners, which can be utilized in their advanced learning like Textile Print Design, Fashion Illustrations, Jewellery design, Home Décor and also in their presentation work. Thus, it is very important for every learner to possess such skills in the field of design.
Water Colour in style of Textile
Water colour is an exercise which helps the students to paint fresher looking objects of nature, geometrical forms as well as Fashion Illustrations. Certainly, once the learners gain knowledge and understand the above mentioned subject, they are quite capable to revise and recall their previously learnt subjects, and add value to its look with an ornamental touch for the filling and color transparency for its background as well as shading to make it more presentable.
Basically, water colour is an addition to improve the presentation techniques of every subject, as learned above for future practice. The learners utilize their skills they have painted on paper using the above understanding, on textile using various methods and mediums of printing with different pigments, dyes or from textile printing etc and create usable products like cushion covers, table mats, etc. To take this subject further at an advanced level they learn stencil designing using various techniques, especially with tools like air brush painting that gives them extra skills which they can use in future while learning Advanced Textile and Fashion Design with good amount of confidence.
These skills are somehow not enough at GIFT NGO to develop Textile Print Designs, that is why GIFT teaches the learners atleast a thousand “boutie” designs which are later converted into panels where students learn to connect the designs , then these designs are converted into yokes for necklines and then sari “pallu” designs. The specimens are also designed using hand and machine embroidery where students develop a range of designer pieces created on their own from the start to finish. This learning develops in-depth confidence in each learner, and at this juncture the learner becomes ready to proceed further for learning Textile Print Design and basic weaving on loom.
Simply with the above learning, using skills of embroidery with appropriate threads and colours and converting their concept into end product certainly gives courage and spirit to attempt further learning with heart and soul. Therefore GIFT faculty has always taught their students free hand designs, in any textile surface without any restrictions, so that they can work with a clear state of mind and blow out ideas for conceiving Textile Print Design Concepts.
Later, every individual at Gandhi GIFT is taught as to how the above learning can to be used technically serving the purpose of appropriate deliverance like forming registration marks, fixing repeat continuous flow of the concept, intricate inlay “jaals”, blotch style scattered chintz, sari pallu, sari border, sari “boutie” and “boutas” and understanding the use of block print for print design etc.
Here, their learning with pencil is complete where Textile Print Designing is concerned. They learn how separation of colors for printing purpose as required for the final print design for above mentioned subject which is incorporated all the further printing styles and methods as per their understanding, guidance and feedback appropriately.
Then comes the subject as to how the printing on the cloth will be done according to the theory learnt with its technicalities to be utilized for final result. This knowledge will help while learning about chemicals and vegetable paste and other dyes.
The duration of learning of the above subject at GIFT is 160 hours and it is simply impossible to believe that any institute can teach the developing of concepts of actual designs and its technical conversion into such printing is possible , but such achievements are only possible at GIFT which is taught in our Foundation Course. That is why GIFT has worked wonders in imparting short-term part-time Design Education globally.
One should not be surprised by GIFT’s teaching methods, objectives and missions because every learner’s work gets checked daily by faculty for their growth, and this is only possible by the willingness to teach and high morale of the guide and teacher while teaching. Thus the staff at GIFT is certainly in favor of the above mentioned attitude towards teaching and learning, by the grace of God Almighty which is the supreme exhalted power.
To make the above learning much simpler in the favour of GIFT learners, we provide additional knowledge through workshops to learn other basic skills such as Block Printing, Khadi Printing, Resist Printing such as Batik, Shibouri, Tie and Dye, Clamp Dye, Leheriya etc, Vegetable Dyeing, Mineral Dyeing, Emboss and Painting, Hand Embroidery, Stencil, Printing, etc for their development of knowledge and skills.
Textile Print and woven style Tessellation
Due to the above learning from the beginning to this juncture, we can clearly understand that GIFT fresh learners become very flexible and able to utilize their knowledge of skills as well as conceptualization effortlessly. Here, GIFT NGO teaches them the toughest subject of Textile Design which in other words is a tessellation of the earth paradise through its natural, abstract, geometrical forms, insect, and their mix and match style for creating print design and woven concept professionally which is taught in a very simple and unique style.
It is important to know that for the above learning GIFT fresh learner does not use facilities such as computer and various softwares, which normally in other Design Institutions, are used as a common practice. On the other hand, the learners clearly know how to implement the theoretical knowledge given to them and transfer that using the basic softwares of the computer.
Simply, GIFT NGO does not believe to teach which can be easily snatched by others because it is not available in other source of knowledge beside them. That is why GIFT learners work always remains unique and genuine than others.
The above total learning of GIFT learners, from basic to advanced in a short term specialization, for above mentioned subjects is not less than any other known design institute’s UG and PG Programme Course. So it is for you to decide which part of education one should enjoy learning through GIFT education.
It certainly saves time and lakhs of rupees in a lot of manners. Simply this is happening due to the style of inculcating morale and power in each GIFT learner and also praising appropriately, the work in depth for their growth by the grace of God Almighty.
After completing the above mentioned subject GIFT NGO begins teaching about weaving, which is very simple and easy to learn at GIFT. It is thus elaborated as follows.
Weaving
Basically, when common people see the working of handloom and power loom for making of any fabric through various media like audio, video, documentary films, TV coverage, still pictures through print media, books, magazines, industrial and handloom sector visits, show the intricacy of making clothes in various complicated ways used for different purposes, but GIFT learning is made extremely simple so that the GIFT learners can practice weaving effortlessly with an in depth understanding of the subject weaving in the field of designing. Therefore GIFT believes that a subject needs to be segregated for better understanding, atleast for a wider subject like weaving.
The understanding of fibre and its spinning into versatile yarns along with the various methods of spinning systems and its different uses is mentioned in detail in the column of COMMON TEXTILE. Weaving doesn’t mean that if you have yarns you can place it on loom for weaving. Technically, it is not a correct version of learning, because it implies a systematic planning from fibre stage to the end product for definite market purposes. The minute details of weaving begin from fibre and yarn followed by various preparatory systems for weaving and finishing. That is why GIFT’s teaching has segregated the spinning knowledge for weaving purposes systematically as follows.
Basic understanding about sample warping in synchronized along with yarn count, reed, fabric geometry with the warping pattern and fabric construction needs to be understood before the warping of any sample. That means the learner must be aware of the sectional warping system.
The leasing separation of the individual ends of warp is not that important for sampling but it is essential for production because every single end of warp on the loom is attached with warp ends in a break stop motion. This means that whenever any warp thread breaks, the loom will automatically stop.
Secondly, after completion of the making of the warp it should be transferred on the warping beam which is attached on the loom with a let off motion.
Thirdly, the warp should be drafted in loom shaft frame according to the warping pattern relative to its fabric structure. After drafting, the threads need to be dented appropriately in the reed, chosen as per the fabric structure, that means the warp ends from the warp beam almost reach the take off beam by passing through sharp frame healds to the reed followed by the beater. On reaching the take off beam of the loom the threads should be tied systematically leaving any ease, where the tension of the warp threads need to be more or less the same for a better weaving process.
Later the shaft frame should be attached to the treadle in the case of a hand loom and in the power loom it is tied with taped or dobby systematically according to the fabric construction peg plan (weaving style) and weft insertion where all accessories such as pick wheel or dobby chain should be attached.
At this juncture, the loom is ready for weaving. In case there is a need for more weft insertion, in that case, drop box, projectile or any other system from the loom is utilized and thus one can start making a sample on the loom with systematic weft insertion from the above mentioned with perfection.
The above mentioned is certainly very simple to understand, especially how to weave on a loom, but the right way to teach the fresh learner is to bring in the awareness of its preparatory system.
Every design institutions are teaching subjects where at times they need to push away their whims and whimsical moods during such professional teaching. Otherwise this kind of nature of the faculty would lead to the development of frustration and a feeling of insecurity, where the students become less enthusiastic towards the subjective knowledge. That is why GIFT is more powerful than any other institution for basic knowledge teaching of the above subject and inculcating them into each individual’s mind as follows.
First of all learners should learn what yarn is, and its difference at various stages, whether finer or coarser, the technicality of its count in relation to weaving where it is necessary to understand the systematically followed knowledge of fabric geometrical cover factor. One must learn all possibilities of various weaving constructions without fault as you may have seen a slippage on the warp and weft finished fabric in the market. Thus, to avoid such faults in weaving, one must know what ends and picks are required per inch while deciding the fabric construction for developing a perfect sample of textile. This incorporated knowledge certainly builds more confidence and power in each learner to courageously develop an attitude of multitasking and its utilities just as the designers of today.
Certainly, if the above knowledge is perfect, almost 80% of the doubts of the learner for woven design will be reduced. That means the above subject should be taught by any teacher through heart and soul for better development of a student for his or her future.
What is Fabric Construction?
Normally, in Designing Institutes they hypothetically with their whimsical mood divert the subject in relation to discoveries from God’s created earth paradise in various forms, patterns, textures, etc which is not correct.
One should teach the above subjects in direct context because Fine Arts and Designing are two different subjects. No doubt, they are historically related to each other and are very well synchronized with its compositions through intricate inlay of overlapping or flat structures etc. But from the above subject, learners are learning as a profession. That means, if their learning is direct subjectively, it will certainly boost their morale and confidence and they will courageously proceed further with improvement rather than getting entangled in foolish talks, explanations and justifications which is not required by any textile industry. Then why not approach the learning of the subject directly without wasting time having total fruitful productivity. That means the teachers need good subject understanding along with explanation power and references to help each fresh learner for their future practice.
Before going to the direct context of learning, every learner must compulsorily pay attention to the behaviour of different system yarn spinning systems because in weaving their character for forming any fabric construction needs to be understood. This certainly is important because this understanding should be incorporated by the learner before understanding the A, B, Cs of fabric construction.
Fabric Construction
There is no doubt that one can count the types of Fabric Construction on their finger tips, but its intricacy of inlaying capacity in versatility is certainly endless. Therefore every decorative of Fabric Construction is mind-blowing in itself.
For example Plain Weave has a fabric construction of “one up one down” which had been developed by human mind. Its versatility with various fibre and yarns is like the magic wand of a sorcerer creating beautiful textile.
For example “Dhaka mulmul thaan” passes through a ring of the size of a little finger, whereas the same style woven industrial canvas with a length as Dhaka mulmul cannot even be lifted easily inspite of the width of fabric being the same. This difference shows the weight wise and design variation which gives rise to various types of textiles available, as mentioned in our text on general Textile.
For example Calico, Cambric, Chiffon, lawn cloth, Muslin, Organdie, Poplin, Voile, etc are known textiles in terms of plain fabric for multipurpose fibre mostly cotton and silk, and now available in synthetic also. Emergence of such textile does not depict the end of Plain Weave Fabric Construction. Infact this weave is more intricate design using versatile hand dyed fibre and yarn having different count. Its development can be simply seen through Chambray effect (endless in colour). Colour and weave effect, stripes, checks with same count and creating a similar thing using fancy yarn, thin and thick yarn in warp and weft in terms of fine to coarser Fashion Textile. That means the above technicalities are essential for each learner’s understanding about fabric cover factors where practice is needed before setting the loom for weaving and this method should be followed for all fabric structure.
Plain Fabric Structure Versatilities
It is normally woven on a 4 shaft loom with “one up one down” style of fabric construction. It does not necessarily need 4 shafts, but it is used to reduce weight on the shaft frame while weaving in order to avoid breakage or damage of yarn or the shaft frame where entangling of healds with each other might take place. This practice can be followed with other fabric structures if needed.
Mostly Plain Weave fabric structure does not have a square geometry, but this can be manipulated using the calculated shrinkage from loom and of the finished fabric accordingly. This calculation will certainly vary from fibre to fibre due to their individual characters otherwise a standard understanding of the plain weave is that the warp weight is mostly higher than weft, which means more ends per inch than picks per inch. The above understanding followed systematically as above with all fabric construction with appropriate adjustment in the shaft denting mostly as the various fabric constructions by its names as follows.
Plain Weave , Warp Rib, Weft Rib, (Oxford weave), Basket (Mat, Hopssack), Drill, sateen, simple twill (2 up-2down) Derivatives Twill, Elongated Twill, Derivative of Twill, Irregular Sateen Weave broken Twills, Diamond Twills, Herringbone Twill, combination of Twills, Fancy Twills, ZigZag Twill, Wavy Twill, patterning Twill (Figure twill) Hopssack, Crepe, Honeycomb Huckaback, Mockleno, Ribs and Cord, Weft Cord Weave, Bedford Cords, combination of weaves, Colour and Weave (with versatile fabric construction for formation of stripes, checks, texture, pattern, etc.) Back Cloth, Double Cloth colour in weave, Warp back cloth, Double cloth, Wedded Double cloth, Treble cloth, extra warp and extra weft, figurative Jacquard, Warp and Weft pile, Pile figurative both way – warp and weft, Tapestry pile fabric, special Madras Gauze fabric in colour and weave effect, Figurative cut gauze fabric, Leno (mosquito nets) etc.
The above mentioned practical teaching of Textile Fabric Construction to the fresh learner is not an easy task for any Designing Institution. It is time consuming, and hardly any institutes prefer to carry this burden to impart such subjective knowledge, practically in the present scenario of learning, but below are some segregations for the usage of textile specially for professional practice of Designers. This is to make learning easy with sound knowledge of designing appropriately with needs as instructed.
Dress material, shirting, suiting, sheeting, soft evening dress fabric, chintz’s, blouse fabric, sari textile, uniform for apparel industry and heavier material such as home textile in the form of bed sheet, bed cover, pillow cover, table tops and mats, doormats, carpet dhurries, flooring, tapestry, upholstery, drapes, floral, wall hangings, etc for toiletries such as towels, napkins, etc for industrial textile, filter fabric, canvas, water resistant fabric, tent textile, hose, mosquito nets, etc.
The above mentioned understanding is segregated for 3 definite purposes which is important for any design institute to thoroughly teach the learners subjects as per their interest.
Basically most of the design institutions practice industrial oriented Fashion Design and teach in depth about Apparel Industry needs including Home Textile, but unfortunately they fail to teach the important details like for example textile constructions, which is difficult to teach and enough time to practice practically on the loom. This shows that the structural knowledge is essential because whenever they get a chance to practice designing professionally in the industry they can utilize that knowledge which they have gained as students.
The above subjects at GIFT NGO are taught with extra care to all voluntary learners, giving individual attention to their subjects, taught with in depth understanding of Design and the knowledge needed while working in the industry is sufficiently taught to each individual learner of GIFT.
Inspite of all this institutions are not able to fulfill the student’s awareness completely towards the subject due to time bound teaching programmes but that can certainly be fulfilled by professional practice because for learning where the sky is not the limit, by the Grace of God Almighty.

Zest of GIFT Textile and Learning
No doubt everyone who takes birth by virtue of God Almighty comes into the world without textile and clothing with a cheerful welcome. Gradually as they grow gradually they enjoy the versatility of wonderful clothing by wearing beautiful textiles for appropriate shape of garments to fulfill the purpose as their status.
As we are all aware that the earth’s paradise is a treasure of unaccountable wonderful gist and gesture of unmatchable to each other, in two and two varying things, in versatile usage by human beings .In the same manner mostly every human grows and his or her mind develops appropriately.
As the above mentioned understanding his or her knowledgeable especially in relation to textile and fashion garment utility to fulfill their pride and liking which varies from individual to individual by many meanings and for that development of versatility of textile becomes an endless procedure in textile industries for our human society globally.
By the virtue of god almighty human mind took the actual shape in purposeful research and development for textile in correlation to its glamorous gist and gesture for human society while keeping in mind its comforts, drape, tactile and ergonomics. Due to the above wonderful event Textile has globally become the world’s second biggest industry after the food, due to basic human needs which is why the human’s continuous research process becomes necessary for such developments to come.
This gives a clear picture of how vast this field is and to learn all that in one life is not possible by any means, but many known Design Institutions claim commonly and strongly emphasizing their abilities to teach detailed versatility of textile in various segments such as fiber, yarn, weaving, dyeing, processing, printing, non-woven and their permutations and combinations with varying aspects of its practicality and techniques, Adding flavour, churning and proudly taking the small gist and gesture of textile by giving an important example such as resist process of textile for dyeing and printing techniques, various textile craft techniques without giving much detail about textiles, geometrical, physical, chemical abilities.
While learning one should know the above said because, textile is said to be the second skin which people wear over their actual skin, and this should be smart in all means. This in todays time is not found to be totally accurate in design drawing as global textile industry is needed from designers. As said above it is their habit to talk big without possessing basic knowledge of versatility in relation to the subject, and they live with beautiful jargons, versatile names of it, and compositions in their mix and match style while copying. That is why nobody is taking shape from such institutions to be like the “Guru of Textile” William Morris. That is why the placement for them is full of struggle for their survival in the field of textile designing.
As above mentioned it is not for humiliating other institutions even though we are all grown up designers gone through with such teaching and learning process and style. Myself Prof.Khalid Ameer Rafuqe was quite hesitant after graduation from NID to practice as a designer in the renowned textile industries finds less abilities to practice as a designer appropriately with gained knowledge from NID but that era was different in comparison to present days.
The continuous effort and writing notes in relation to what was learnt in the institute as a learner and what is different in textile industry has a huge gap when compared but “who can fill that gap?” which is the biggest task for any design institute and that task is sportingly taken up by Prof.Khalid .
That is why GIFT textile design education course abstract and teaching methods along with its objectives, missions and policies are very different and very appropriate for a fresh learner as well as for understanding. GIFT being an NGO believes in helping hands working with their heart and soul in favour of the fresh learner and his or her learning.
GIFT textile Course content is meaning wise more or less the same as above where some educational aspects may be like other Design Institutes except a few, totally originated by GIFT but the teaching methods are certainly different in favor for small and large textile industrial needs. Its teaching is made so simple that it is similar to the system of eating healthy food resulting in good results for the body.
That means that GIFT textile relation and its basic understanding is very close to the needs of the human society with tremendous consideration to the depths of its existence, and thoroughly considered, without fail, every time a fresh learner is individually taught any subject.
Why does a GIFT learner not fail to inculcate al the designing skills while learning?
This is simply because each abstract course content has varying style of numerous explorations through empirical methods along with practice, before reaching the final selection of the ideal concept of any design. This is followed by an open presentation to all for a general critic and approval from GIFT faculty.
Another reason to the success of GIFT’s fresh learner is appropriately linked to the above mentioned course abstract which means that A to Z textile courses are revised and learnt at least 25 times during the course and this repetition at a regular basis drills in the knowledge in the fresh learner making the basics of their subject very strong. Due to this method of learning it has been observed over the years that these students put their heart and soul in their work producing great results.
In spite of GIFT’S Short term, part-time duration course the learning time given to these students is enough and hence its Textile Education is termed as “Composed Textile”.
The above mentioned is due to Prof. Khalid’s continuous practice and research for GIFT’s development for which he has traveled from being a student at NID, to textile industries like Arvind Mills- Ahmedabad, Jayashree Textile Rishra – Kolkatta, Raymond, Thane and many more, then coming back to NID for learning Apparel Design Under faculty development program, later coming back to the industry, simultaneously teaching as a visiting faculty and then a regular faculty for 2 years at NID.
Through this journey of life he has gained knowledge of quick learning and teaching with versatility of in depth Textile Designing. As the end result for the above a seven month specialization along with Common Foundation Course takes place for the fresh learners at GIFT which is not less than any other Design Institute’s UG and PG Courses also helping them in their future practice in industries and free lancing by the grace of god almighty.
Initially it was an extremely difficult task to create a structure of practical by demographically individual teaching course concept for the fresh learners through GIFT’s short-term part-time teaching style all as a multipurpose of Textile Design. Inspite of all the odds by the grace of God Almighty Prof. Khalid finally achieved his first batch of GIFT during 1995 of 16 students.
Their learning contents for Natural, Organic, man made and other textiles is as follows:
1. What is Textile
2. What does it comprise of?
3. Versatile meanings of the categorization of basics of Textile.
4. What is specialized Textile Design and its purpose?
5. How is textile made, and what are the needs of its existence?
6. Techniques of making a Textile
7. Fiber and its categories like natural, man-made, metallic, those which can be dyed after carding and combing made ready for its spinning.
8. Textile fiber and its blending capacity to each other for the study of preparation of versatile yarns
9. Study of various spinning systems and doubling normal or a fancy yarn as per the needs of the textile industry. Study of final spinning as needed by the Designer for the appropriate needs of the Fabric Construction.
10. Yarn setting to avoid snarl formation during warping and weaving.
11. Weaving preparation like Warping, Sizing, Drafting, Denting, along with details of instructions of usage.
12. Weaving Process
13. Mending, grading, Segregation lot wise for further processes.
14. Textile processing and various techniques and methods such shearing, bleaching, scouring, dyeing, printing, setting, finishing of cloth etc.
15. Warehouse processes like grading, cutting, as per the instructions and later labeling and packing for the appropriate market.
16. Other textiles like animal skins,(leather), fur, plastic, rubber, and felt (namada).
17. During sessions, importance also given to the development of technology and Textile Related News, Globally.
The above understanding and teaching at GIFT certainly helps the fresh learner for their Design Course. The word fresh learner will be repeated quote often because the course abstract content are very much different to each other along with its utility.
The above understanding of GIFT teaching textile certainly helps learners for their designing course appropriately as follows:
Airplane Fabric
It is a closely woven plain weave with comb and is mercerized yarn to cover the inner part of the wings of the airplane. Nowadays it is also made of nylon, polyester, cotton blends which are resistant to mist and frost.
Alpaca Crepe
A plain weave fabric of two ply yarn generally made from rayon to act as a stimulator to coarse wool fabric.
Amara
Made of 60% nylon and 40% polyurethane foam and the market name of the product is “suede”
Backed Cloth
This fabric is designed with an extra warp filling (weft) usually from cotton or wool to add weight to the fabric. The users mostly prefer twill or a satin weave used for vests, suitings etc.
Bagheera velvet
It is a fine woven uncut pile velvet for a rough smoothened surface which is crushed and still has resistence. it is mostly used for ladies in evening gowns.
Baloon cloth
Is made by using a yarn count of 60’s to 100’s, combed mercerized, having a lustrous surface. It is especially used for dress materials, shirting, and earlier used as a typewriter ribbon.
Barathea
It is an extremely distinct type of fabric made from silk or a man made fiber. It has a broken ribb weave construction with a pebble surface mostly used for making ties.
Bark Crepe
Originally developed with wool with a crepe construction and is a tree bark style. Presently made with rayon and other manmade fiber for coat material for women’s wear.
Batiste
Initially made in 3 styles with a blend in cotton, polyester, pure cotton and wool. The construction of this textile is plain and extremely soft in nature named after the “Lawn Family”. Nowadays lightweight lawn fabric is also available in the market with various blends whereas the actual lawn was made from cotton itself.
Cut Velvet
It has a similar construction like that of Velvet with a cut pile, earlier cut using scissors and lately highly automatic cutting machines are used for the same cutting process. It is made in various figurative styles on jacquard machine and is a plain weave though dobby weave used especially for women’s evening wear.
Bedford Cord
Earlier was used to be made from wool in a 2 ply yarn for warp and backing was single for the coat material but nowadays it is available in all textile blends for multipurpose in different look..
Bisso Linen
Its other name is “Altar Linen” made from assorted flax wiry yarn which gives a crisp feeling. It is a very fine sheer linen good for top clothing.
Brocade
Historically, in the golden era, it was mostly woven in a sateen weave. An elaborate lustrous design woven in the style of a raised surface in appearance with a fabric construction of twill weave using decorative colored yarn in weft along with metallic threads. It used to be woven in pit looms called “jaala weaving” in India and later weaving continued using jacquard looms due to the increase facilities. This fabric is used for drape, upholstery, dress material, sarees and in India Benaras in well known for the manufacturing of Brocade.
Calico
It is made from very fine count cotton or cotton with a man made fiber also used in printing purposes and the product of its uses are aprons, dresses, curtains and quilts.
Cambric
A very light weight fabric, closely woven with plain weave of very fine count, usually woven with cotton or linen. Its end product is used as handkerchiefs, children’s dresses, night gowns, lungis and dhotis.
Cotton crepe
Normally woven by silk or rayon yarn with crepe construction where warp is finer and the weft filling is coarser making the fabric heavier and durable which drapes well mostly used for women’s dresses.
Cotton flannel
The warp face is cotton or blended cotton with other fiber. The construction of fabric is of twill and the filling (weft) if heavier than the warp with long nap is later processed in the mill .the final product is used for hand gloves, infant wear or lining.
Canvas
Basically a heavy fabric made form cotton or linen in two styles. Firstly it was with an open mesh canvas made for embroidery purposes earlier through hand spinning technique nowadays used for making shoes, purses, bags etc. Secondly it is closely woven with a coarse count of highly twisted yarn in two or more ply’s in plain weave for various product developments of such a textile.this is further used in the luggage industry as well as for the artists.
Cashmere (Pashmeena)
Real Cashmere fabric is woven only from Cashmere goat’s hair which is fine and closely woven in twill weave, naturally napped. It is extremely soft and full of warmth with the end product mostly turned into a shawl.
Chambray
It is usually woven by a colored yarn warp with natural or white filling(weft) giving tiny checks of mottled effect. This has endless variations in the same contrast of weaving nowadays also available in stripes, checks etc and the market is full of such products in variety.
Charvet Silk
It is woven in stripes of rib weaves, straight or diagonal, mostly with silk and manmade fiber. Due to its softness it is used only for neck-ties.
Chiffon
Made with a light weight highly twisted yarn with a plain weave construction of silk and man made fiber. It has a character of transparency with a soft finish mostly used for sarees , dresses, scarves, lingerie etc.
China silk
Mostly woven by silk with natural uneven thickness and thinness at irregular intervals in the yarn. This normally twisted structure helps to give more sheen than chiffon .the fabric weight is light and its end product is used in lingerie and scarves.
Chintz
Woven with low count cotton in plain weave especially made for printing purposes in chintz style. Its finishing similar to other printed fabric with added calendar effect for its glaze and smoothness used in drapes and dresses.
Crepe
This fabric is known for its wrinkled effect on its surface mostly woven in plain weave with highly twisted warp and a normal twist filling(weft) . It can also be woven with stylized constructions of textile with a normal twist yarn or different components of yarn through chemical treatment available in silk, cotton, manmade or with their blends appropriately. It is used in scarves, dresses, lingerie, sarees etc and a heavier crepe is used for men’s wear. Nowadays designers are manipulating through its derivative style of construction geometrically, figuratively while blending various fabric construction with crepe style of construction. It has no limit to its explorations for creating meaningful and endless textile for various purposes.
Corduroy
It is a ribbed pile type fabric with extra style of filling threads which forms horizontal or vertical loops in small floating controlled style with proper tension that is unstretchable.
The loops and floats get entangled strongly and when the fabric is taken off the loom the pile and floats are cut from the centre vertical position. After cutting the pile fabric gets crushed and a pile formation takes place which can be designed by mixing versatile colors and filling to have endless results. It is used in coats, trousers, skirt and now days in home décor etc.
Damask
Similar to brocade woven on a jacquard loom. A comparatively flatter embossed effect with a compact weave smoother than brocade and the construction of the weave also has larger floats and loops on the surface of the fabric. It is woven with a highly twisted yarn due to which the durability is high. Damask can be identified because of its design seen from both sides in the shape of a square. Nowadays the designer’s exploration for making damask is endless and is used mostly for formal wear and elite use it as home décor.
Denim
Mostly woven in a 2 up 2 down twill weave from the left to right direction with colored warp and an undyed yarn filling (weft). The warp is of a coarser count more twisted in nature as compared to the weft. More or less denim is made from 6-8 nos of cotton count through open spinning system. In order to make a softer denim the same style needs to be used instead a twill weave of 3 up 3 down or 4 up 4 down etc should be used and the the reed of the weave should be adjusted appropriately. This in turn is good for making softer fabric and products like shirts, jackets, jeans etc.
Drill
This is a tough fabric woven with 3 shafts with a construction of 2 up 1 down twill weave, which has more weight holding capacity. This can be made for designers for versatile usage while using very fine to coarse count with permutation and combinations of high and low twist for extra crinkled effect. It is used in heavy shirting, uniforms, coats, trousers etc.
Flannel
Cloth mostly full of nap (raised fibers like slub yarn) with wool and fabric construction normally a balanced twill with an open mesh giving an extremely soft surface .Its end use is in men’s suit, shirt, trouser and in some cases blended to make specialized garments using cotton.
Gabardine
In today’s textile industry it is referred as 2 up 2 down twill weave in a left to right direction as said in the textile construction language. In earlier times it was made with carded and combed cotton yarn, rayon, worsted from medium count where warp was with ply yarn and weft was single. It is mostly used like a coarser and tough fabric for a skirt, jacket, trouser, coat and a heavy shirting.
Georgette
Basically a sheer , light weight textile in a construction style of a crepe textile where the warp ends are alternatively blended with high twist and normal twist yarn whereas the weft (filing) remains the same like that of the warp . Singles count, highly twisted yarn which creates concepts like Textile Surfaces or crinkled texture is also used which is harsher than chiffon. This type of textile is more or less used for printing with an end use like dress materials, saris, blouse, lingerie etc. originally was made only with silk yarn but gradually it has also started being made in man-made yarns.
Huck (Huckaback)
Derived its existence when Swedish people wore this textile, made by lifting (picking) warp threads, by filling floats and vice-versa in order to create a pattern. Originally made in linen, now is made in various types textile like honeycomb construction along with dobby effect. Its end use is mostly home décor and ladies garments.
Irish poplin
Originally made with silk warp and wool weft through construction of plain weave. Due to the wool a fine rib takes shape in the fabric and similarly is possible with cotton and linen, with a loose weave specially used for neckwear and also in women’s wear in Italy.
Jeans Textile
Originally constructed with 3 harnesses, a warp face, light in weight which later got converted into a coarser count denim, where warp count is higher than weft. Historically also made through a herringbone style of construction.
Long cloth
Extremely fine plain cotton fabric woven with a high count yarn where weight of fabric is little higher than lawn textile. Generally it is combed and its construction has more of a squarish look. This fabric can also be used for the printing as well as dyeing material etc.
Madras Textile
This is woven in the style of fine and bold stripes or checks through coarse cotton yarn usually combed. Its color bleeds while washing, everytime creating new look. Mostly used for shirting and madras checks, known globally.
Muslin
Basically a coarser type of plain weave where fabric is made only from carded cotton, heavier than long cloth, known for its character of unbleached sheeting. Its end use is for covering purposes and now for draping patterns by Fashion Designers.
Organdy
It is a sheer, stiff cloth woven in plain construction with combed cotton yarn with a very fine warp count of 100-150 ne with a weft of 100 ne. this weave is closely woven with a filling of stiffness. This is obtained by giving a temporary or permanent sizing treatment, followed by a weave stretching for easy laundry and crushing of the cloth at a later stage. It can be used as a stiff curtain and also in evening dresses for ladies mostly in pastel shades. Previously available in both cotton and silk, and now only in cotton.
Organza
It is a sheer, thin, stiff and a plain weave fabric, made of a high twisted silk or a manmade filament. Fibers which crush easily which can be pressed and moved appropriately in a garment. It is mostly used in woven evening gowns.
Oxford
The basic meaning of this textile seems to be missing and this name has been given to the weft. It is said to be a semi- basket weave for a heavy weight fabric made of cotton and rayon yarn which is carded and combed and on the other hand it is the same except that the weft in mercerized yarn. Used mainly for shirting, dress materials and its use.
Sateen
Originally woven as the upper surface with a smooth and lustrous finish. It is a warp- face construction. Comparatively the warp ends are higher than that of the weft. Nowadays sateen is available in cotton, wool, silk, and man-made fabric such as rayon, polyester etc, for multiple purposes, with varying grades. When woven with a finest count then it is used as textiles for making ties.
Satin
Originally woven with silk filament and now versatility with various manmade filaments has taken place. This is a warp-face, highly lustrous fabric, good for lingerie and dresses used as a high quality fabric. It is mostly used for labeling.
Sheeting
Originally made from cotton of 10s and 30s count but is now mostly made with Carded yarn. Its construction of sheeting is more or less same in warp and weft but to increase the strength occasionally the number of count is increased by 2-4 %. Nowadays it is also available in various blends for various purposes. Used sometimes for cheaper bed sheets and curtains during winters.
Shepherd’s checks
Originally a group of 4 ends colored warp and 4 picks with no color in weft with a fabric construction of twill where float of warp and weft is number 4 and more. Nowadays designers are using such concepts in multiple colors available in wool and silk for various purposes like ladies garment, shirting and special shepherd checks in Bhagalpur weavers making, similar to the above with matka silk, highly sold for other textile segments.
Tapestry
An originally crafted textile which has a figurative meaning while blending more weaving construction in 1 form surface .Usually woven on the jacquard loom. It has 2-3 layers of fabric woven conjestedly available in both fine and coarse texture. It is mostly used as upholstery.
Taffeta
Generally it was a smooth closely woven fabric in plain weave construction by silk which is crisp in nature. it is used in dresses, suits and lingerie.
Terry Cloth
This is a warp fabric having uncut loops on both sides of the textile which is woven on a terry loom (tobbaya), mostly used in towels.
Tweed
It is mostly woven in wool with micron gradation and is segregated which can be piece dyed or a yarn dyed fabric and its construction not very specific. It can be plain , basket or twill weave and sometimes herringbone. It is woven by a coarse yarn and its milling in olden days was like Scottish tweed, which once is off loom is used to be spread on the wooden flooring where couples danced with wooden flat sole shoes for its milling. It is used for coat blazer.
Velvet
Originally it is made with compact, short warp pile of silk and later with man made fiber. It is similar to flush fabric which has a softer feel. It can be printed and its end use is in ladies garments.
Voile
Normally this is woven with fine single yarns, highly twisted with plain fabric construction. Generally is made out of a highly combed cotton yarn. Especially for children and ladies garments.
There are still many more textile terms which have their own identity and definitions.